TMB A Journey Of Mountains And People
The Tour du Mont Blanc
An 8-day trek around Western Europe's highest peak, where every col crossed brought new faces, and every refuge held conversations that lingered longer than the ache in my knees.
Day 1: The First Climb and a Bet on Variant 1
The famous TMB signboard was behind me, and ahead loomed the very first climb - brutal enough to make me question whether I could sustain this for nine days. A group of teenagers breezed past me early on, but somewhere near the top of that punishing ascent, I overtook them and..... I never saw them again.
At a trail split, I faced my first decision: the standard route or Variant 1. Facebook groups and fellow hikers had warned about Variants 2 and 3, but Variant 1 seemed doable, so I took the bet.
Boy oh boy. Best decision of the entire trek.
The variant was peaceful, nearly empty. As I climbed toward Col du Tricot, ibexes crossed my path - their hooves clicking against stone, utterly unbothered by my presence. At the col's summit, two French locals who'd witnessed the ibexes invited me to share their cheese. They pointed out Fourvière and the Lyon mountains in the distance, and told me that they planned to run, yes RUN, the entire tmb in just 4 days. I chuckled and continue enjoying the Comté cheese they offered, which became my all time favourite cheese. I even purchased it at the end of the first day when I pass through Les Contamines.
Day 2: Sebastian, the Unprepared Legend
I met Sebastian at the campsite on Day 1. The encounter was almost comical—he'd bought his backpack literally the day before starting the hike. No preparation, no gear besides a tent. When I ran into him at Intersport in town, I watched a staff member introduce him to different packs. The next day at camp, he mentioned buying his bag "yesterday," and I had to laugh. "Bro... I think I saw you at the store! I remember the whole thing!"
He was using the same Durston tent as me, which caught Leonard's attention later that evening. Leonard, an electrical engineer with deep knowledge of backpacking gear, would become a recurring figure throughout my trek - sharing meals and conversations that ranged from gear nerds to just chatting about life. We exchanged contacts and was giving each other constant updates throughout the trek!
Sebastian walked at his own pace. Day 2 was the last time I saw him, but that randomness - buying a pack the day before a thru-hike and just going for it - stuck with me.
Day 2: Tom, Rosemary, and a Glimpse of My Future
Crossing snowfields that afternoon, I met an Australian couple: Tom and Rosemary. Tom was crossing a river, after which started drinking water straight from a milk carton like it was the most normal thing in the world. We crossed paths repeatedly throughout the day, and each time we'd exchange smiles, waves, small updates on the trail ahead.
Later, we stopped to rest together. Tom and Rosemary told me about them traveling the world in their early 30s with backpacks, lack of electronic devices, choosing adventure over comfort. I imagined my partner and I doing this same trek decades from now - still curious, still seeking the trail, still laughing at each other's quirks.
I took a photo with them, hoping to become like them someday.
Day 2: The Hong Kong Group and Col du Bonhomme
At Col du Bonhomme, I ran into a lively group from Hong Kong—Timothy, Nelson, and friends. Nelson was hilarious, dramatically scared of the snowfield we had to cross. Timothy boldly declared, "Google me—HK AI big man" and I couldn't help but laugh. Lo and behold, he was indeed a HK AI big man, Timothy Leung. Walked and talked to him about technology for almost an hour and when his group leader told him that he was walking too fast, we stopped and waited for his group to catch up.
I ended up taking a group photo for them, capturing their joy at reaching the col. It was one of those moments where you realize that everyone on this trail, regardless of where they're from, shares the same childlike excitement about being in these mountains.
Day 3: Into Italy and the Refuge Experience
Day 3 was breathtaking—literally and figuratively. After a bus to Des Glacier, I visited Vente de Beaufort, an old-school cheese farm that supplied refuges along the trail. The climb to Col de la Seigne was stunning. Every corner revealed a new angle of Mont Blanc, its white peak impossibly bright against the sky.
At Refugio Elisabetta in Italy, I met David and his mum from the US. After taking some photos together, his mum said something that stuck with me: "Your energy and spirits are just so high and lively."
I didn't realize how much I needed to hear that. The trail was hard. My knees were starting to hurt. But her words reminded me that the way I carried myself mattered - not just for me, but for the people I encountered.
Day 3: Dinner at the Refuge and the Milky Way
That night at the refuge, I sat at a long communal table for dinner. An adventurous elderly couple shared stories of choosing wild, off-trail refuges. ~~As they did the TMB in an anti-clockwise manner, their initial sections had them walking through thick snowfields that rose up to their waist level!~~ Jessica from Australia, a landscape architect on a working vacation, talked passionately about her projects. Kosei from Nagano, Japan, explained how he'd accidentally booked the wrong refuge and now faced back-to-back long days. Sam from the US, a fellow photographer, half-convinced me to push hard to La Fouly the next day.
After dinner, I stayed up late to photograph the Milky Way. Around midnight, a man approached—David from the Czech Republic. His partner was feeling unwell, feverish. Without overthinking it, I offered them the spare bed in my shared refuge room.
Maybe it wasn't the wisest decision. Maybe it bent some unspoken rules. But I believe that we look out for each other when it matters.
When I finally collected my camera hours later, the Milky Way shots took my breath away. First time seeing it in person. Absolutely stunning.
Day 4: Courmayeur, Focaccia, and a 29 EUR Pasta Regret
Day 4 was a cheat day. My right knee was screaming from running downhill too hard on Days 1 and 2 (likely ITB syndrome?), so I took the cable car down to Courmayeur. Grateful for the cable car.
I wandered the charming Italian town alone, savoring a rosemary focaccia that I still dream about. Then I made a mistake: ordering pasta at a random restaurant for 29 EUR. It was... alright. I should've waited for the polenta shop - which multiple shops recommended - to open.
Still, I have no regrets about taking that day to rest, eat, and soak in Italy before pushing into Switzerland!
Day 4: Crossing into Switzerland and the Marmot Encounter
After stocking up, I took a bus to Arp Nouvaz and started hiking around 1:30 PM. The climb to Grand Col Ferret was tough, but at the top, I met two bikepackers—Michal and his friend—pushing their bikes uphill. We took photos together at the col, celebrating the border crossing into Switzerland.
The landscape shifted. The sharp Italian peaks gave way to rounder, gentler Swiss mountains. I was mostly alone, moving slowly due to my knee. That's when I spotted my first marmot—an adorable creature that wandered close enough to my camera for a perfect shot.
Later, I reached Cabane Gite de la Léchère and ran into Kosei again. He told me about his next insane push to correct his booking mistake. We took selfies and wished each other well.
The descent to La Fouly was long and lonely and my knee was really hurting like hell at this point. I contemplated stopping at a Swiss refuge, even waited at a bus stop hoping for a ride. No luck. But eventually, La Fouly appeared around the corner, and there - at the entrance by the trash bins - was Leonard again.
We laughed at the coincidence. Leonard had this way of appearing exactly when I needed familiar company.
Day 5: Meeting Yuri and Terrence
I left La Fouly around 7:45 AM and noticed two Asians leaving the campsite as well. We walked at a similar pace for a while before I decided to introduce myself.
Yuri from Japan and Terrence from Hong Kong, both on working vacations. Terrence, an immigration officer at the HK-China border, had a sharp sense of humor. Yuri was bubbly, lively, and planning to hike parts of Kungsleden after TMB. Their energy was infectious.
We moved fast - maybe too fast for my sore knee, but I kept up. Along the way, we encountered trail runners competing in a 60km TMB race. Watching elderly runners take the lead was humbling.
At Praz-de-Fort, I tried my first ginger coffee cookie - unique and delicious. From there, we climbed together, chatted easily, and eventually explored a dark cave that Leonard had told us about. Inside, we set up my camera and tripod for a group photo. It felt like we'd known each other for weeks already.
Day 6: Charly and the Free TMB Badge
Day 6 started in a misty, magical forest. Everything was damp and foggy - I was literally walking through clouds at 1,500m elevation.
At Refuge de Nant Borrant, I ran into Christian again - the group of Americans I shared coffee with on day 2(??) morning. This time, his wife, pregnant, was with him. She told me something I'll never forget: "Where you put your heart, you will definitely be able to achieve it."
Trail conversations hit different. Maybe it's because we're all suffering together, pushing through discomfort, choosing this challenge. Words of encouragement feel deeper out here.
Later, I reached La Forclaz and visited the only souvenir shop in that part of Switzerland. Inside, I met Charly Airault, a videographer and content creator. We bonded over cameras, and when I went to buy a TMB badge, he waved me off: "It's on me :)"
I was stunned. That badge - saved 6.5 EUR - but more than that, it was the gesture. A stranger choosing kindness. I hope his video career takes off. He deserves it.
Day 7: The Meal That Was Paid For
At Auberge La Boerne, I ordered tartiflette for lunch. A couple at the next table - two CEOs from Tennessee - convinced me to switch to the 3-course meal of the day as they saw me hesitate when I place my order. We then chatted about life, work, and travel. They were spending two months in France, clearly successful and generous with their time and stories.
When they left, I thought nothing of it.
Later, after finishing my meal and heading to the counter, the staff told me: "The couple already paid for you."
I stood there, speechless. 38 EUR. They didn't have to do that. I didn't even get their names. But that moment reinforced something I'd been learning all week: people on this trail give freely. Not for recognition. Just because.
Day 7: Infamous TMB ladder section with Jennifer and Dylan
After lunch, I hiked the final ascent of the day with Jennifer - a strong, no-nonsense woman originally from China who moved to the US at 15 - and her son Dylan, a computer engineer turned computer scientist. We tackled the ladder section together and encountered dozens of ibexes along the way: adults, babies, entire families.
Jennifer's energy reminded me of the people I want to surround myself with - competent, curious, unafraid of challenge. Jennifer who's in her 50s, still courages enough to conquer the ladder segment of TMB, an absolute role model to her sons who were panting and trying to keep up with her as we hiked.
That night, I camped at Lacs de Chéserys with a direct view of Mont Blanc. Sunset painted the sky in pastels. I sat with Leonard, Yuri, Terrence, and the others, taking photos and sharing stories.
It's true what they say: it's the always the people. I was lucky.
Day 8: The Final Push
On the last day, I walked down with Leonard and friends. Kinge was terrified of the snowfield (which, to be fair, was tricky). We ran into Jennifer and her family again—I was relieved they'd skipped the final snowy section.
Eventually, I gave up on the descent and took the cable car down. My knees had given all they could.
Reflections: What the TMB Taught Me
The Tour du Mont Blanc was never just about the mountains. Yes, the cols were stunning. Yes, the ibexes, marmots, and cloud inversions took my breath away.
But what I'll remember most are the faces:
- The French locals sharing cheese at Col du Tricot
- Tom and Rosemary, showing me what a life of adventure looks like at any age
- Leonard, appearing like clockwork at every campsite
- Charly, giving me a badge for no reason except kindness
- The Tennessee couple, paying for my meal because they wanted to
- Christian's wife, reminding me that where I put my heart, I'll achieve it
- Yuri and Terrence, doing what their heart desire
- Jennifer and Dylan, climbing ladders and laughing at ibexes together
I started this hike wondering if it was better to hike solo or with a group. By the end, I realized the question was irrelevant. The trail gives you both. You walk alone when you need solitude. You walk together when you need connection.
And somehow, the trail always knows which one you need.
Thank you to everyone I met along the way. You made this journey unforgettable.